The KEHAN KH823 Full HD 1920×1080 Car DVR Dash Cam was kindly provided to me by ESong-Digital free of charge in exchange for a fair and unbiased review on Amazon.co.uk. No additional compensation was given in exchange for posting this article on my blog.
At the time of posting the KEHAN KH823 Full HD 1920×1080 Car DVR Dash Cam is no longer available on Amazon in the UK or USA. A replacement camera has been released by KEHAN that is an identical camera but includes a GPS module.
The KEHAN KH823 Full HD 1920×1080 Car DVR + GPS Dash Cam is available from ESong-Digital Fulfilled by Amazon.co.uk at a cost of £85.99 with free P&P. In the US the KH823 DVR + GPS is available with a 16GB MicroSD card from SOLARFENEL CORP on Amazon.com at a cost of $104.99 with free P&P. (Prices correct at time of posting).
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PACKAGING & CONTENTS.
The KEHAN KH823 is supplied within a good quality white two section card box bearing branding information on the lid and product details on the rear. Inside the camera is wrapped in plastic and held in place protected with a padded insert, underneath in a separate box following accessories are found…
A warranty booklet.
An illustrated English instruction booklet.
A 12v car adaptor with hardwired cable.
A USB A to Mini B charger cable.
A car windshield mount.
– LCD: 2.7 inch (16:9).
– Sensor: OV4689 1/3-Inch CMOS Digital Image Sensor.
– Lens: 6 layers glass+1IR filter.
– Language: English (default), Traditional Chinese or Russian.
– Video resolution: HDR 1920 x 1080 25P, 16:9, 1920×1080 25P 16:9, 1280×720 50P 16:9 or 1280 x 720 25P 16:9.
– Decoding format: H.264.
– Video format: MOV, using HDR 1920×1080 resolution at superfine quality a 300 second recording consistently uses up 440MB of space.
– Photo format: JPG.
– Memory card support: MicroSD up to 128GB. No additional requirements stated, personally I have only tested using class 10 Scandisk Ultra cards.
– MIC/Speaker: Built in. There are two small speakers on the front and a recessed pinhole microphone located on the underside of the camera.
– Frequency: 50Hz/60Hz.
– TV system: NTSC / Pal.
– USB interface: 2.0.
– Battery: The manual, simply states “built in rechargeable battery” with no other information stated. Repeated testing with a Drok multimeter and charging via a USB 2.0 laptop port / USB 1A wall charger and a 2.1A port on a power bank consistently indicated the capacity of the battery as 145mAh. This provides enough power for about 5 minutes of recording with the LCD active.
– Recording resolution: HDR 1920 x 1080 25P, 16:9, 1920×1080 25P 16:9, 1280×720 50P 16:9 or 1280 x 720 25P 16:9.
– Quality: This option sets the video quality, the options available are Superfine / Fine / Normal. Unless storage space is an issue I would leave the quality at superfine to obtain the highest quality.
– WDR Setting: WDR = Wide dynamic range, this is designed to produce clearer images / video in circumstances where lighting can vary excessively, especially when both very bright and very dark areas are simultaneously present. When recording at night this should be on otherwise the camera may not cope well with headlights coming towards you. The options are either On or Off, it should be noted that when the resolution is set to HDR 1920x 1080 this option is unavailable and when set at any other resolution it is enabled by default.
– Stamp (Watermark): This produces an overlay on the video / picture image with the options on offer are Date / Time / Driver ID / Off. (It is possible to select as many options as you wish, you could have the date and time or date and Driver ID or even all three).
– Gsensor: The camera has a built in Gsensor which in theory can be used to have the camera only make a recording if you get hit or hit something. The options available are Off, High, Medium and Low. Given that significant G force is required to test such a feature which I am unable to simulate I am unable to comment further regarding these settings.
– Recycle (Loop recording): To reduce storage maintenance (having to wipe the card once it is full) the camera can be set in a constant recording loop. It will start recording and once the specified duration has been reached it will return to the beginning and begin to overwrite the initial recording. The options on offer are 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes and off.
There are two problems with this setting, the first is that the durations are way too short. The camera is capable or recognising up to 128GB cards and even with a 16GB card 5 minutes takes up little room, additional options of at least 30 minutes or even an hour should be available.
The second problem is perhaps the biggest. I have tested this no less than 5 times and double checked all the settings and even changed the MicroSD card however the problem persists. When the Loop recording option is set to 5 minutes the camera records exactly (and I mean exactly) 5 minutes of footage and then just stops recording.
With the loop recording set to 5 minutes it should always have the last 5 minutes of a journey recorded, but each and every time all that remains is the first 5 minutes.
– Motion detection: There are two options for this, either on or off. The purpose of this setting is to enable the camera to start recording automatically if motion is detected.
– Frequency: 50Hz/60Hz.
– White balance: Auto / Sunny / Cloudy / Fluorescent / Tungsten.
– AE meter: This is an exposure meter and has two settings of either Centre or Spot. Centre metering gives the most importance, usually between 60 and 80 percent to the light that is concentrated in a circular area in the center of the frame. Spot metering operates under the same basic premise, but the metered area is much smaller. Personally, I would stick with Centre metering, but feel free to experiment to see which produces the best image for you.
– AE bias: This is exposure compensation that can be set to -2.0, -. 1.7, -1.3, -1.0, -0.7, -0.3, 0.0, +0.3, +0.7, +1.0, +1.3, +1.7 or +2.0. This setting will increase or decrease the brightness of the recorded footage, in an early morning winter sunrise or mid summers day you may want to decrease this a little and on an overcast dark afternoon you can compensate by increasing it.
– Language: English (default), Traditional Chinese or Russian.
– Card volume: This setting provides details of the partition used on the MicroSD card, including used and available storage space.
– TV system: NTSC / Pal.
– Driver ID setting: This allows for entering a single 9 character driver ID which can be added as a watermark to pictures / videos. As far as I can tell there is only space for one ID which is a shame as it could have proved more useful for commercial drivers of pool veichles if it was possible to add more.
– Date / Time set: Self explanatory.
– Format: This formats the installed MicroSD card and requires double confirmation.
– Default setting: This wipes any changes made to any and all settings, restoring them to factory default.
– Auto power off: Options for this are Off / 5 minutes / 3 minutes / 1 minutes.
– LCD off: The LCD can be set to power save (switch off) after a set time or left on at all times. Enabling the LCD power off does not effect recordings it simply makes the camera less of a power drain and nuisance when driving at night. The options are Off / 5 minutes / 3 minutes / 1 minutes.
– Delay power off: The options are Off / 15 Seconds / 30 seconds / 60 Seconds.
– Audio: This has two options of On or Off. This does not disable the microphone it just disables the onboard speakers.
– Version info: This displays firmware information of the camera.
CHARGERS & CHARGING.
Testing using a Drok multimeter I found that the camera contains only a 145mAh battery. During charge testing the following readings were obtained when the battery was dead…
Test start – 5.16v, 1.135w, 0.22A
After 10 minutes – 5.16v, 1.135w, 0.22A and the battery had been charged 26mAh.
After 45 minutes – 5.17v, 0.413w, 0.08A and the battery had been charged 140mAh.
Between 45 and 56 minutes the battery had been fully charged and the multimeter was indicating a 145mAh charge from dead to full.
Some may well question the point of such a small battery and the manual, simply states ” Built-in Battery is mainly used to save the last file when disconnecting”. In truth given that it lasts about 5 minutes while recording it would very well prove useful in the event of an accident resulting in the failure of on board electrics. Sure a bigger battery would be better, but at least there is one.
Supplied with the camera is a 71cm long (excluding connectors) USB A to Mini B charging cable and a 12v car power adaptor with a 3.9m long cable (excluding connectors). Those that have a 12v port that is always powered regardless of whether the engine is on or off should not that the adaptor does not have an independent power button.
I have to confess to having one slight concern regarding the car adaptor and that is the positive pin / contact. This unscrews to reveal a fuse and it unscrews rather easily, a mere three quarter turn in fact is all it takes.
The dash / windscreen mount is a basic pendant style suction mount where the camera is suspended from above. Mounted on a windscreen the total height of the mount and camera from the back edge is 12.5cm and from the front it is 8.5cm and the suction cup measures 5.2cm in diameter.
Like a mobile phone holder there is a press down clip that retains the mount on the windscreen and there is a small pull tab on the suction cup to aid with removal. The camera can be removed from the mount, allowing the mount to remain attached to the windscreen, however it is nothing short of frustrating and removing the entire mount is insurmountably easier.
The mount is free moving without lock on the horizontal plane with 230 degrees of movement, in reality movement on the horizontal plane will be restricted by your windscreen and not the mount. On the vertical plane the camera is entirely free moving up to 80 degrees forward (the windscreen will get in the way long before this however) and 160 degrees backwards. There is a small plastic dial quick release lock that secures the camera in place on the vertical plane.
As well as a charging port on the camera there is also a charging port on the mount itself. This would prove useful to leave the mount in place with the charging cable attached so you can just remove the camera when leaving the car. The problem is it’s just too much of a hassle to remove the camera from the mount and more often than not you will just end up removing the entire mount, detracting from the usefulness of this port. When this charging port is used on the mount it restricts the movement of the camera backwards to 90 degrees.
Overall the mount is functional but basic with significant room for improvement.
On the top right edge of the camera is the main charging port, why this isn’t on the bottom edge I do not know, it would make the cable less obstructive if it were. Using this port it is also possible to connect the camera directly to a PC to transfer data from the MicroSD card. On the right edge is the power button and a small recessed reset button that requires a pen or similar implement to operate.
When connecting the camera to a PC I found there was a connection problem between the bundled cable and the Mini B port which resulted in frequent drop outs. When this happened the camera locked up with a blue screen simply stating “USB Connecting” when this happened the only way to clear it was to press the reset button.
On the bottom edge to the left is a recessed pinhole microphone and an HDMI out port to connect the camera directly to your TV and to the right is a 3.5mm AV out port (sadly no 3.5mm to 3RCA cable is provided) and MicroSD card slot.
On the front either side of the lens is a small speaker and there are no features or ports on the side edges. On the rear is a 2.7″ LCD screen with Menu, Rec and Mode buttons on the left side along with two LED indicators and on the right of the screen Up, Down and Camera buttons.
The functions of the buttons are as follows…
Mode: – Tapping this button switched between video, camera and playback modes. When in the menu, tapping this button exists the menu.
Rec: – Tapping this button starts and stops video recording.
Menu: – Tapping this button once enters the settings menu. Additional presses within the menu changes tabs (there are three separate menu pages).
Up: – Menu navigation button.
Camera: – When in camera mode, tapping this button will take a picture. In video recording mode taping this button will start recording. When in the menu section tapping this button will confirm selection and any changes made.
Down: – Menu navigation button.
The camera chassis is entirely covered with a black rubberized silicone (with the exception of the buttons which have a chrome foil coating, screen and lens) and measures at its greatest points 53.29mm high, 95mm wide and 32.99mm deep.
The included video footage largely speaks for itself, there is however one point I would like to make and that is an occasional slight fault that I have not been able to pinpoint after some 50+ clips that have been recorded. Randomly the camera doesn’t record audio, when this happens on the LCD screen there is a microphone icon with a yellow warning triangle above it.
I have checked all the settings on the camera and I am unable to find the reason for the lack of audio recording. When this warning symbol is shown a reboot always clears and resolves the lack of audio and it only ever happens when first switched on and never in the middle of any recordings.
Thank you for taking the time to read this review, I hope it has been helpful to you. If you have any questions or comments regarding this review, please post a comment below and I will do my best to answer them.
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